Admittedly, the first time I tried Griot was at Exotica Caribbean Kitchen, the first Caribbean restaurant in Taipei, Taiwan. The iconic Haitian dish, Griot, or fried pork served with plantains, has been on my list of things to try, but the timing never entirely aligned until I traveled to Taiwan. Please make no mistake: I have no regrets that my first time trying Haitian staples was in Taiwan. While at Exotica, I felt like I had been invited into someone’s home.
Founder Marilene Roger and Partner Frantz Augustin joined me for dinner. In front of us were other staples, including Red Snapper, Riz et pois (Haitian rice and beans), Spicy Pikliz (spicy coleslaw), and Salad Pòmdetè Ak Bètrav (Haitian potato salad). I imagine this is how it would be if the duo had invited me to break bread with their families back in Haiti. The atmosphere was warm, inviting, and informative. That’s precisely what Roger and Augustin want people to feel.
“We want people to feel like they’re at home,” Augustin tells Travel Noire. “There are no restrictions once inside. You can come in and enjoy yourself and talk to other people without someone saying, ‘Hey. You’re too loud.””
Aside from a welcoming restaurant, the co-founders also wanted to create a place to learn about Haitian culture through food. Beyond the explosive flavors on the table, there was so much to unpack about the world’s first free Black republic. Many Haitian dishes tell a story of resiliency. Soup Joumou, for example, is a pumpkin soup that celebrates Haiti’s independence.
“All Haitians eat ‘Freedom Soup’ on January 1st,” Roger and Augustin informed me. “January 1st is our Independence. We eat it as a tradition because our ancestors could not.”
Freedom Soup was not on the table, and guests shouldn’t expect to see it unless pumpkins are in season. Even though Roger and Augustin are over 9,200 miles away from home, Roger keeps many traditions close. One tradition is cooking only what’s in season.
“My grandmother used to say Mother Nature tells you what you need each season, so cook only what’s in season,” says Roger. “I have a special connection to nature because I grew up in a house with a garden in our backyard. Most of our food came from my father’s farmhouse, and my mother taught me to cook.”
Exotica: A Love Letter To Haiti
Roger took a leap of faith and resigned from her corporate job in 2017 to further her studies in finance, so she moved to Taiwan. As a student, Roger would often seek out Caribbean restaurants. To her surprise, there were none, which was shocking because of Taiwan’s long-standing relationships with Caribbean countries, including Belize, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, and, of course, Haiti.
She thought someone should change that but didn’t immediately act on it because she focused on her studies. Four years later, Roger graduated with a dual degree in finance. For six months after graduating, Roger tried to land a job as a financial analyst before deciding to create her own path by opening Exotica.
Roger initially wanted to go back home, but she found an opportunity after former Haitian President Jovenel Moïse was killed. Part of her reason for staying in Taiwan to open the restaurant was to show a different side of Haiti, which she and Augustin say is not often portrayed in mainstream media. Exotica is a love letter to Haiti and the country’s extraordinary cuisine and culinary traditions.
“Right now, with the social-political situation, people don’t know how to feel about Haiti. They see gang violence or an unstable capital city… there is so much to show the world,” said Roger. “This is my opportunity to do something. It’s a way to show our beautiful culture and pay homage to the long-lasting relationship between Haiti and Taiwan.”
In addition to Haitian cuisine, Exotica also serves Caribbean staples from various countries. The co-founders recognize that their restaurant is the first introduction for locals and want to represent other Caribbean countries with which Taiwan has a relationship. With more representation inside their restaurant, they hope people feel a sense of community.
Augustin and Roger’s next goal is to franchise the restaurant and take it to other neighborhoods throughout Taipei, thereby introducing Haitian food and Caribbean culture to more people. Exotica is located in the Shilin District at 57 Zhongshan North Road, Section 7.
