As you travel through the African diaspora, it can be hard to ignore similarities and familiarity between the cuisines. For example, venture to New Orleans for its iconic jambalaya, and you will immediately recognize the closeness to West African jollof rice. And if there’s one seed that could talk about its journey from the Motherland, it would likely be okra. The staple ingredient found in Nigeria’s Okro Soup, in Ghana’s Fetri Detsi, and Senegal’s Soupou Kandja can be found in the stewed okra dish Quimbombó Guisado in Cuba and Puerto Rico. Meanwhile, in Guyana, okra is used in Guyanese cou-cou and in caruru, a dish originating from the state of Bahia, Brazil.
When exploring the culinary traditions of the African diaspora, it becomes clear that the Transatlantic Slave Trade, combined with migration, resilience, trade, and creativity, has profoundly shaped African foodways. Beyond the diaspora, eating habits and culinary practices from African cultures have also become the foundation of many global cuisines. Here are some ways in which African foodways shaped global cuisines.
A Transatlantic Connection
In his book Hog and Hominy, Frederick Douglass Opie makes the point that Black America’s soul food culture is an “amalgamation of West and Central African influences.” He drives home the point that soul food represents adaptations from those enslaved during the era of slavery and the fight for freedom in the Americas.
Historical research and oral records indicate that enslaved Africans carried seeds in their hair during the Middle Passage to cultivate crops from their homeland, such as okra, black-eyed peas, and yams. Planting these seeds served as a way to maintain a connection to their heritage in the face of brutal violence and oppression. The small gardens of those who were enslaved also represented a quiet resistance to maintaining autonomy over their own food supply.
These ingredients, along with their culinary memory, eventually became the base for soul food. Over the centuries, the seeds and ingredients have helped preserve some sense of identity among the descendants of those forcibly taken from their homelands.
North America: How African Foodways Inspired Soul Food Traditions
Soul food is derived from key crops, cooking techniques, and flavor profiles that resemble those of West and Central Africa. The cuisine represents an adaptation of West African staples, such as okra, black-eyed peas, and yams, combined with Native American crops like corn.
Soul food cooking techniques, which involve frying, smoking, and slow-cooking, were also adapted from West African traditions to flavor and tenderize meats. For example, slow-cooking leafy greens such as collard greens with aromatic spices is a distinct African culinary tradition. In Louisiana, the flavorful and famous dish, gumbo, is thickened with okra. Historians claim that Louisiana gumbo is a variation of the Senegalese stew.
Black-eyed peas, a type of legume that is both nutritious and traditional for Black American families during New Year’s celebrations, originated in West Africa. In the Low Country, the Gullah Geechee culture’s red rice is considered a descendant of West African jollof, as they both share a tradition of simmering in a spiced tomato base while infused with flavor from other spices.
African Foodways Across The Caribbean
With origins in West Africa, the leafy green callaloo was brought to the Caribbean by enslaved Africans. Throughout the region, it is a staple dish with variations that differ on each island. In Jamaica, callaloo, also known as “bhaji,” is a steamed side dish that is sautéed with onions, garlic, scallions, thyme, and pepper. It’s usually served with dumplings or fish.
In Trinidad and Tobago, callaloo is a flavorful soup that is the national dish. Of course, every family has its own variation. The main ingredients in the soup are typically Dasheen leaves (taro), okra, pumpkin, coconut milk, onions, and garlic. Some people use crab or salt meat and Scotch bonnet peppers for a bit of spice. Traditionally, people eat the soup with macaroni pie and rice.
In Grenada, callaloo is a creamy, spiced side dish that is stirred or blended to a smooth consistency. The main ingredients in the dish are Dasheen leaves, garlic, onion, and coconut milk. Families serve callaloo with other ingredients such as breadfruit, dumplings, and salted meat.
South America: African Foodways In The Region
One of the best regions to find well-preserved African culture and traditions is in South America. This comes as no surprise, as the vast majority of enslaved Africans were sent to South America and the Caribbean.
In Brazil’s northeast state of Bahia, the Yoruba people of Nigeria brought acarajé to the region. While typically larger than the Nigerian version, acarajé is a deep-fried street food made from mashed black-eyed pea batter that is deep-fried in palm oil. Once fried, it’s then split open and filled with various ingredients.
African-inspired cuisine in Guyana’s neighboring country, Suriname, reflects the food of West Africa and Maroon traditions, where key ingredients such as peanut butter, cassava, plantains, rice, and root vegetables take center stage. Surinamese tom-tom is a dumpling made from cornmeal that often reminds people of Ghanaian fufu. Bakkeljauwballetjes are fritters or balls made from cassava and salted codfish.
Global Influences
African food, customs, and traditions extend beyond the African diaspora, as many cultures have incorporated signature spices, vegetables, peanuts, and cooking rituals into their cuisines. Harissa, the fiery and aromatic chili paste originating from Tunisia, is commonly found in Middle Eastern dishes, including hummus. Couscous, invented by ancient Berber tribes in North Africa, can also be found throughout the Middle East.
These ingredients, which originated in Africa but are now found throughout the world, reflect a long history of cultural exchange through trade, adaptation, and the impact of enslavement, as well as resilience and rebellion.
