When I started traveling, my first destinations abroad (aside from the annual road trips to Canada) were Vietnam and China for school, followed by an intense backpacking experience through Europe. I am a late bloomer when it comes to exploring Central America and the Caribbean, and I regret not exploring the regions sooner.
Recently, I had the opportunity to spend time in San Pedro, Belize, located on the southern part of the island of Ambergris Caye (pronounced “key”). I found it to be a laid-back destination that takes pride in its easy-going energy and creativity within the food space. Ambergris Caye is a roughly 1.5 to 2-hour ferry ride from Belize City.
Belize City is the starting point for exploring the country, which is home to over 400 cayes. While Belize City is worth visiting, the cayes offer an incredible blend of adventure, natural beauty, fantastic food, and relaxation, including Ambergris, where San Pedro is located. Here’s everything you need to know about traveling to San Pedro, Belize.
Fast Facts
- Modes of Transportation: There are only two ways to travel from Belize City to San Pedro: by ferry or by airplane. Once on the island, most people get around on a golf cart.
- High Season/Low Season: The high season is December through April. The low season is from June to November, during the Atlantic Hurricane Season. Shoulder season is typically considered to be May through June and November.
Essential Tips:
- Best Times to Visit: Although more expensive, the best time to visit is after the hurricane season, when travel delays and cancellations are minimized. A sweet spot is the shoulder season.
- Dress Code & Packing Tips: Sun protection is key, especially while snorkeling or diving. The water is salty, and it’s easy to burn (from personal experience). Bring items such as hats, UV shirts, and light clothing.
- Cash/Credit Considerations: Cards are generally accepted, as are USD. $1 USD is equivalent to BZ$ 2.
- Pro Tips for a Smooth Visit: John Greif II Airport in San Pedro is a small airport that welcomes hundreds of people each day. Book your ride to and from the airport in advance.
What To Expect When Traveling To San Pedro
While San Pedro is only about 35 miles away from Belize City, driving is not an option. The two options are a roughly 2-hour ferry or a 15-minute plane ride. The ferry ride on the San Pedro Belize Express Water Taxi, for example, costs on average about $58 per person round-trip. Tropic Air and Maya Island Air are the two local airline carriers that transport people to and from the small yet otherwise busy John Greif II Airport in San Pedro. Round-trip fares range between $218 and $250.
- Noteworthy Highlights: Keep your phone or camera ready. The ride in is stunning.
What To Consider When Selecting Accommodations in San Pedro
There is some debate on whether to stay in a hotel or use a home-sharing platform such as Airbnb or Vrbo. Home-sharing platforms, of course, offer more space, privacy, and in some cases, are cheaper than hotels. However, if you don’t know what you’re doing or where to go, then it can be a challenge getting around. In San Pedro, for example, most people get around on golf carts.
That said, hotels in San Pedro can also give you space and privacy, along with curated events and experiences that will help you diversify your options.
- Noteworthy Highlights: For me, the perfect accommodation is Alaia Belize. It’s a favorite among my friend group and on TikTok. Not only is the property stunning, but it features two pools to choose from, including a rooftop pool. I especially appreciate how the hotel makes getting around the town easier by offering guests access to golf carts. One evening, while having dinner on the rooftop, I spotted a double rainbow, which is another perk of staying on an oceanside property with a gorgeous (and adults-only) rooftop. Amid the swim-up bars, spas, luxury gyms, and paradisal rooms, the most underrated amenity for me was the concierge. If you’re new to San Pedro, the team has compiled a list of the best options for short stays and undiscovered spots for more extended stays or returning visitors. The team will also go a step further and book your interests, taking the stress out of planning.
Explore The Belize Barrier Reef: World-Famous Snorkeling And Diving
You can’t visit the home of the second-largest and most alive reef system in the world without visiting it. At the top of your itinerary should be exploring the Belize Barrier Reef, where you can snorkel at Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley.
My tour was with Reel Escape by Reel Belize. It’s a group I highly recommend for people worried about their safety or, quite frankly, for people who can’t swim at all. Safety is a priority for this team, and they have contingency plans in place regardless of the expertise level.
- Noteworthy Highlights: On the way to The Split, we had the chance to feed Tarpon that are as big as a toddler.
Visit The Split: A Popular Hangout In Caye Caulker
Caye Caulker is the closest caye to San Pedro. Most people visit what’s known as The Split — another destination that’s perfect for relaxing, eating local cuisine, and shopping for locally crafted goods such as handmade jewelry and artwork.
It’s called The Split because of the narrow waterway that divides Caye Caulker into two parts. Locals say it was formed during Hurricane Hattie in 1961. It has become a daytime swimming and hangout place for tourists. The iconic cocktail here is the Green Lazy Lizard, made with vodka, citrusy juices, and a hint of mint. It’s the kind of drink that hits you fast, so pace yourself.
Other things to note about The Split are that it’s popular among cruise travelers, so be prepared for an influx of people at any moment. They usually stay for about an hour. Local vendors may approach you as you exit the ferry or while you’re having lunch. They’re not aggressive, but rather passionate, so kindly let them know you’re not interested.
- Travel Tip: You can use cash or a credit card at The Split.
What to Expect When Visiting Secret Beach and the “Truck Stop”
Once back on Ambergris Caye, another highlight of the trip is Secret Beach. It takes about an hour to travel to the scenic and less touristy parts of the island via a golf cart. Some people call Secret Beach a tourist trap, but there is great bar food, a fun obstacle course on the water, and outdoor seating along the beach.
On the way back in town, take a moment to visit Truck Stop — Belize’s first shipping container food truck park. It’s filled with local vendors who provide fresh options and desserts such as ice cream.
Travel Tip: The birds here are a nightmare. Watch your food. If you turn for even a second, your lunch will quite literally be for the birds. Also, get to Secret Beach early. The good chairs along the beach (the ones with umbrellas and shade) fill up quickly. Seating is first-come, first-served.
Try An Exclusive Wine and Food Pairing at The Cellar at Sea Salt
A memorable experience (for me) usually involves food. The Chef Table Experience with Alaia Belize Executive Chef, Alex Aleantara, was one of the best experiences I had in San Pedro.
I joined nine other people for an intimate dinner experience with Chef Aleantara at The Cellar at Sea Salt, where we enjoyed a seven-course meal paired with wines. Chef Aleantara went above and beyond to educate a small group of people about spices, flavors, and the science behind what we taste, as well as how smells impact our palate.
Bitter. Sour. Sweet. Umami. Salt. We explored flavors and participated in an interactive “sauce and spice making” lesson that activated our tongue map.
Here’s What To Expect at the Molecular Mixology Experience at Arlie’s
People on San Pedro take pride in growing and using local ingredients to make items that are relatively challenging due to the island’s geographical location, and being no less than a 1.5-hour boat ride from the main city.
That pride and joy come out with the mixology experience at Arlie’s. Arlie Petters is a celebrated scientist and futurist in the wine and spirits industry. His cocktails embody creativity, precision, and a sense of wonder. This interactive molecular mixology class will defy what you knew could be possible with drinks (such as putting cooked slices of bacon in your spirit, then freezing it at home for an infused savory spirit). It’s creative, exciting, and mocktail-friendly.
People often mistake Central America as a monolithic region, but Belize disproves this theory. What I found throughout San Pedro is that it has a unique blend of both Mayan and Caribbean cultures, which is reflected in its culinary landscape. Mayan influences can be found in dishes where corn takes center stage, such as tamales. The Caribbean and Garifuna (descendants of West Africans and indigenous Arawaks) influences can be found in the rice and beans, fried plantains, and cassava-based dishes like hudut, a hearty soup usually made with coconut milk, stewed fish, and mashed plantains that’s formed into a ball.
